Tourist boom threatens ancient forests | Global News Avenue

The couple stood on the edge of a steep limestone cliff.

More than 100 meters (328 feet) below lies a lost world of ancient forests, plants and animals. All they could see were leafy treetops and hear the echoes of cicadas chirping and birds bouncing off the cliffs.

This “tiankeng” or “sinkhole” in Mandarin has remained unexplored for thousands of years.

People feared the monsters and monsters hidden in the mist that swirled up from the depths.

But drones and a few brave souls sneaking into places untouched since dinosaurs roamed the earth are discovering new treasures and turning China’s sinkholes into tourist attractions.

Two-thirds of the world’s more than 300 sinkholes are in China, spread across the country’s western regions – the southern province of Guangxi has 30 known sinkholes, more than anywhere else. Its largest and latest discovery was made two years ago: an ancient forest with trees up to 40m (130 feet) tall. These cavities in the earth preserve time, preserving unique and fragile ecosystems over the centuries. However, their discoveries have begun to attract tourists and developers, sparking fears that these incredibly rare finds may be lost forever.

“I’ve never done anything like this before,” Rui, 25, said, looking down at the crack. “It’s very cool. It will be the first time, but not the last.”

She took a deep breath. Then she and her boyfriend took a step back—off the edge and into the air.

Phineas—the man who had just double-checked Ray and Michael’s harnesses before sending them off the cliff—knows better than most what it’s like to step back from the edge.

He was one of the earliest explorers. Now in his 50s, he works as a tour guide, helping people discover the secrets of Guangxi’s tiankeng.

Fe grew up in a nearby village and was told to stay away. “We thought that if humans entered the sinkhole, demons would bring strong winds and heavy rain. We thought it was ghosts that brought the mist.”

Phineas (or Phineas as he is known) is told that these sinkholes have their own microclimate. Wind blows through the tunnel and evaporating water from the river inside creates a mist.

Eventually Fei’s curiosity got the better of him, and as a child he found a way into the sinkhole.

“Every little stone causes a huge noise and echo,” he said. There was wind, rain and even a “mini tornado,” he recalled. “At first, we were scared.”

But he kept exploring. It wasn’t until he brought scientists to the site that he realized how unique these sinkholes were.

“The experts were amazed. They discovered new plants and told us they had been studying these species for decades but had never seen these species before. They were so excited. We couldn’t believe that something we took for granted was so nearby. ‘s treasure.”

As scientists published their findings in journals and word of their findings spread, others began to study these sinkholes. Fei said explorers from Britain, France and Germany have arrived here in the past decade.

Sinkholes are rare. China – and Guangxi in particular – has so many resources due to its abundance of limestone. As an underground river slowly dissolves the surrounding limestone, it forms a cavern that expands upward toward the surface.

Eventually, the ground collapsed, leaving a large hole. Its depth and width must be at least 100m to qualify as a sinkhole. Some, like one discovered in Guangxi in 2022, are much larger, extending 300 m into the ground and 150 m wide.

For scientists, the caves are a journey back in time, where they can study plants and animals they thought were extinct. They also discovered species they had never seen or known about, including wild orchids, ghostly white cave fish, and a variety of spiders and snails.

Protected by steep cliffs, jagged mountains and limestone caves, these plants and animals thrive deep within the earth.

Ray let out a squeal of delight as she dangled in mid-air, then began her descent.

This is just the beginning of her and Michael’s adventure. Deeper in the cave, they had more rope work to do.

After walking a short distance through the maze of stalactites, Michael is lowered into darkness. The guide scanned the area with a torch, illuminating the arc above us—a network of caves—then shining light onto the narrow passage below where a river once cut through the rocks.

That’s the direction we’re heading. The guide must work to move the rope into position.

“I’m not a very active person,” Michael said, his words echoing around the cave.

It was the highlight of a two-week vacation in Guangxi for the Shanghai couple, a holiday they had longed for during China’s long coronavirus lockdown. “This kind of tourism is becoming more and more common on the Chinese Internet,” he said. “We saw it and thought it looked cool. That’s why we wanted to try it.”

Videos of tiankeng in Guangxi went viral on social media. It’s a fun and daring feat for young people, but it’s a much-needed source of revenue for a province just emerging from poverty.

Guangxi’s unusual but beautiful topography has little farmland and its mountainous borders make trade with the rest of China and neighboring Vietnam difficult.

Still, people come to see the scenery. The pristine rivers and towering karst peaks of Guilin and Yangshuo in the north attract more than a million Chinese tourists each year. A photo of foggy Guangxi appears on the 20-yuan note.

However, few people have heard of Ping’e Village, the village closest to the tiankeng. But that’s changing.

Fei Ge said that the steady stream of tourists is changing the fate of some people in Ping’e. “It used to be poor. We started developing tourism and it brought a lot of benefits. Just like when you built the highway. We’re happy knowing we have something of such value here.”

But there are concerns tourism revenue could outstrip scientific research needs.

About 50 kilometers away from Ping’e, developers have built what they say is the highest viewing platform, overlooking Dashiwei, the world’s second-deepest sinkhole. Visitors can gaze at this special “sinkhole” at a depth of 500m.

“We should protect these habitats better,” said Dr. Shen Lina, China’s leading tiankeng researcher. “Sinkholes are a haven for many rare and endangered plant species. We are constantly making new discoveries.”

By studying sinkholes, scientists also hope to understand how the Earth has changed over tens of thousands of years and better understand the effects of climate change. At least one sinkhole in Guangxi has been closed to tourists to protect unique orchid species.

“Over-exploitation can cause huge damage. We should maintain their original ecological status,” Dr. Shen said, adding that the solution lies in striking a balance.

“Hot air balloons, aerial drones, and appropriate long-range observation trails can allow visitors to observe sinkholes up close or remotely while minimizing disturbance to living creatures.”

Phineas doesn’t object and insists there are “clear rules” to protect the sinkhole and what it contains. To him, they were precious discoveries that changed his life. He is now one of the most qualified climbers in Guangxi and a well-known guide for tourists and scientists, which makes him “very happy”.

As we walked through acres of dense forest within the sinkhole, he pointed to the cliff above us. He told us to come back when it rains to see the waterfall cascading down the side. He assured us it was worth coming back.

Ray and Michael were tethered to a rope and encouraged each other to abseil further into the cave. Visible below them was a narrow fissure illuminated by a torch. This is all the remains of the riverbed, the catalyst that formed this sinkhole.

“We need to balance that joy with protecting this place,” Michael said, looking around.

He smiled and descended slowly, disappearing into the cave.